Smoke, Iron, and Resilience: Keeping the Fire Alive at Ribs BBQ

CEDAR CREST, N.M. — Along the winding curves of the Turquoise Trail, the scent of hickory smoke has long served as a beacon for hungry travelers, bikers, and East Mountain locals. For decades, Ribs Hickory Pit BBQ —known to locals simply as “Ribs”, has been a sanctuary of comfort food and continuity.

But in November 2023, the smoke almost cleared for good.

Following a devastating tragedy that claimed the lives of its owners, brothers Brad and Chad Gunter, the future of this beloved institution hung in the balance. Yet resilience quickly emerged. Today, Big Bertha (the smoker) is fired up, the dining room is full, and a new leadership team—comprised of long-time “chosen family”—ensures that while leadership has changed, the spirit of Ribs remains exactly the same.

A Legacy of Smoke and Iron

Ribs BBQ has deep roots in New Mexico’s culinary soil. The establishment’s full name, “Ribs Hickory Pit BBQ,” pays homage to the historic “Hickory Pit” brand that operated in Albuquerque in the 1950s. Over the years, under owners like Alan Decktor, it cultivated a reputation for fiercely independent culture and St. Louis-style pork spareribs.

In recent years, the restaurant entered a unique era under the stewardship of Brad and Chad Gunter. The brothers were not just restaurateurs; they were professional blacksmiths who ran a forge in Moriarty. They brought an artisan’s touch and a welcoming, raucous energy to the Cedar Crest roadside stop.

That era ended abruptly on November 9, 2023. On that day, a semi-truck veered off Interstate 40 in Moriarty, crashing into the brothers’ blacksmith shop and killing them both. The shockwave of grief extended from the East Mountains to Albuquerque and beyond. The restaurant closed immediately, its front entrance becoming a memorial of flowers and notes left by a heartbroken community. Out of this collective grief, the path forward for Ribs began to take shape.

Stepping Up

When the question of the restaurant’s future arose, the answer came from within. Veronica Gunter, Chad’s widow, alongside family members/co-owners Austin and Asa, approached two people who knew the restaurant’s heartbeat better than anyone: Sonya Chavez and Nick Ploskonka.

“We didn’t think it would happen so quickly,” Chavez said of the transition. “But it was like, how do you say no? They are our family. Not blood, but they are our family.”

Chavez is the definition of a Ribs veteran. She started working at the restaurant 17 years ago, fresh out of high school. “This has been my home ever since,” she said.

Ploskonka, who grew up across the street from the restaurant, started as a dishwasher more than two decades ago. After spending time working in Durango and other kitchens, he felt the pull to return.

“I spent almost a year in the kitchen just learning how to do everything, from washing dishes to smoking all the meat,” Ploskonka said. “To be back here as an owner is really something bizarre and wild, but the staff has just been amazing. They treat me like family.”

Maintaining the Continuity

Taking over a restaurant in the wake of tragedy is no small feat. Chavez admits it was a “sink-or-swim” course in payroll and management, but the mission statement was simple: Continuity.

“We don’t want to change a thing,” Chavez said, fighting back tears. “We want to do them [Brad and Chad] justice. We want to do our community justice. We want to keep it going the way that it’s worked for 30 years now.”

For the customers, that promise is kept on the plate. Ploskonka, now running the kitchen, confirmed that the smoking procedures and recipes haven’t drifted an inch.

“Why would we change any of that? It works so well,” Chavez added.

A Safe Haven

Walk into Ribs today, and the tragedy, while remembered, has not dimmed the warmth of the room. Ploskonka describes the vibe as an “old-fashioned food hall,” where strangers hug, and the barriers between staff and patrons dissolve.

“Everyone knows each other,” Ploskonka said. “You can’t ask for any better customer base than this.”

For Chavez, the goal is to maintain that specific feeling of safety and comfort, a place where a family driving from Tucumcari or a biker riding Highway 14 can walk in and feel instantly at home. It is a culture that the staff, many of whom have been there for years, protect fiercely.

“Everyone hugs when they leave. ‘How was your week?’ Everyone genuinely cares about each other,” Chavez said. “I think that definitely transfers into the customers.”

The Gunter brothers may be gone, but thanks to the loyalty of their staff and the resilience of their family, the fire at Ribs is still burning.

“We just want to keep doing that,” Chavez said. “This is where we were meant to be.”

Information

Location: 12220 NM-14, Cedar Crest, NM 87008.

Phone: (505) 281-4227

Website: www.ribsbbq.com

Search Words for GPS: Ribs, Cedar, Crest, New Mexico